Newsletter 6 -June 2010

Summer has arrived in Yosemite, bringing with it huge throngs of visitors. As you may know, I show my movie Return to Balance: A Climber’s Journey on the weekends at the Visitor’s Center and get to interact with lots of folks in the dialog after that. Lots of questions about rock climbing for sure, but I also get questions that make me feel honored because they resonate to the deeper meaning of the movie, which is that through my dedication to the ways of a rock climber, I have come to appreciate the deep harmony of human existence with the laws of nature. The movement of your body through physical space requires the coming together of your body and psyche with the spirit of the natural world.
I’m fascinated by how much my own appreciation of climbing has been inspired by the writings of the founder of Aikido, Morihei Ueshiba and his student, Mitsugi Saotome. I have been carrying around Ueshiba’s inspiring book Art of Peace with me for years. Here’s what I wanted to share with you, from Saotome’s book, Aikido and the Harmony of Nature:
Regarding the basis of Aikido, he writes in his Preface:
“Aikido movement must be understood from its roots deep in universal law. Its goal is to promote a deeper understanding and appreciation of the perfection of nature’s balance, and to bring humanity back into harmony with God. I want to create in each person’s mind a vivid flashback into our beginnings. I want to draw from your subconscious mind the memory of the very beginning of life and the struggle between time and space of the incredible evolution of humanity. I want you to feel the beauty and power of that evolution and give thanks to the Divine Creator.”
Substitute “Aikido” with “climbing”, and if you are uncomfortable with “God”, just use “our being”, and you see why I find it so meaningful.
Saotome also describes so well the understanding about the balance between nature and society, a value that we wish so much to nurture in our youth through their trips to Yosemite:
“In our selfishness we forget the delicate balance of the dependence of one life form on all others. If everyone applied to nature’s resources a conservation born of respect, love and understanding, and used them with an attitude of sincere thanksgiving to God, nature would be protected and the quality of life enriched. By protecting nature we protect society. By protecting society we protect ourselves. If nature is destroyed, the most fundamental requirement for survival is destroyed. To survive, we must nourish our body. If there is no food, if the water and the air are contaminated, there is no life, no society.”
These are extremely high aspirations to have for our program, but we want nothing less. It stands much like a tall mountain in the far distance that we are setting out to climb. Getting there will require much perseverance, route finding, creek crossings, tricky traverses, and technique. So we continue to take our baby steps, bringing groups of kids for day trips and camping experiences.
Since the last newsletter, I’ve had the privilege of a hosting a few more trips with the Merced County Probation youths, and another trip with kids in foster care. I have been busy learning through these experiences how best to move up the mountain. What I have learned so far I have to say is the role of simplicity, not complexity, in developing the clarity of the senses.
The best moments have come in listening to the water, taking in expansive views of the high Sierras, or encountering a Mountain King snake. In the presence of natural beauty, we appreciate the power of slowing down and having the time to recognize the senses, clearing them out in order to gain balance. Our challenge at Sacred Rok is figuring out how to get this quality experience, while still recognizing that what society wants is to take this experience, scale it up and make it go faster.
Facing that pressure, let me retreat to my Aikido master, Ueshiba Morihei, who wrote in The Art of Peace: “The only cure for materialism is the cleansing of the six senses (eyes, ears, nose, tongue, body, and mind). If the senses are clogged, one’s perception is stifled. The more it is stifled, the more contaminated the senses become. This creates disorder in the world, and that is the greatest evil of all. Polish the heart, free the six senses and let them function without obstruction, and your entire body and soul will glow.”
In my life as a rock climber, this is the spirit that has kept me balanced, moving into new dimensions of climbing. When I finally climbed Magic Line, the hardest climb of my life, I needed to connect my senses to the natural harmony of the place. I had worked on the climb for many months repeating and working on every move. I remember the cold day walking up the trail to the route, trying to clear myself of the stresses that had been accumulating perhaps because of the confusion of my ego. What I really needed was to free myself of these complicated thoughts. I was only successful because I was able to let go of any confusion about why I wanted to do the climb and simply allow all of my senses to engage in the reality of each move as it unfolded harmoniously.


















We are at the “Ranger Rock” area in Yosemite Valley, an area that is usually very busy with beginner climbers, but right now, we are the only ones there. There is a bit of a chill, it being towards the end of a winter day. It is so quiet, an occasional bird. This is the area where some of the first classic climbs in Yosemite were made using just natural protection placed in the cracks on the rock, no scars made by pitons and hammer. These climbs are easy by modern standards, even by my humble climbing skills, but this is where Ron and I have chosen to extend our project.
Our project is not about climbing difficulty, it is about simplicity and the appreciation of the activity. Which is why we are on beginner’s rock, simple as can be. Ron has been up it hundreds of times during his time as a climbing guide and knows just about every inch of its surface. I have been up it three times during the learning phases of my climbing. But from our perspectives, we see the same value of the climb. It is not about the difficulty, but about opening up ourselves to the most fundamental aspects of our own being.
Newsletter 7 July/Aug 2010
Tuolumne
Amazingly, in my past 36 years, not a single summer has gone without experiencing the magic of Tuolumne Meadows. For the last several years, I’ve been camping right next to the river. From the viewpoint that I have at the camp, many natural elements come into play that allow me to reflect on and appreciate my sense of belonging.
Camp has enhanced my own thoughts about connecting to the realities of nature. On most mornings, I wake up before the sun and build a fire. I sit at the camp table, make coffee while enjoying the comfort of the fire, simply observing the changing light bringing in the new day. This has become a profound experience which was inspired by my friend Corbin Harney, a Shoshone elder who passed away a couple of years ago. I visited him a few times at Tecopa Hot Springs where he had a healing center. Every morning he would do this – go out and make his fire before the light, and sing songs with his drum and bring in the new day as the sun rose.
I am realizing while watching these sunrises myself that this is a powerful time of day to acknowledge the beauty of the world we live in, and how it’s taking care of us. In a way, I feel I am finding my personal connectedness that seems to give me more energy and a stronger foundation to what it means to be human. It’s difficult to put such feelings and emotions into words, but these are some of the challenges we address at Sacred Rok.
Starting next week, I am going to get to share this experience with some of the Sacred Rok youths from Merced who will be at this camp, and I am excited about the opportunity. Four guys from probation will be coming up next week, and the following week, we will have a dozen boys and girls from foster care. Katie will be the camp manager, and for the foster kids trip, Nancy and Kenji will take their family summer vacation up here with us to help out.
The river is still flowing pretty fast. The wet winter put quite a snowpack up there, adding to the Lyell Glacier which hopefully will help it survive a bit longer in this period of global warming. The water here is amazing — so near the source of the flow, part of the natural cycle of water moving through mother earth. This water that flows right by the camp, coming from the snowpack that was created by the winter storms from the Pacific, continues down Tuolumne Canyon. The water flows into the Hetch Hetchy reservoir, and is piped to the Crystal Springs Reservoir right through Redwood City where I grew up. I grew up drinking this very water that flows by me, reminding me of the great cycle of life.
In many ways, I was not that different from the Sacred Rok kids, never feeling like formal schooling was right for me, which is how I came to choose the path of education through nature, exploring its laws and order. This is also why I so enjoy connecting these young people to the meaning of the great circle of water. I am thankful for all that water provides us, and treat it with respect, every sip I take, every note I hear of the harmony that the river plays as it flows by me 24 hours a day.
My other ritual I want to share with them is the fire I make every morning as I appreciate the sunrise. From the campsite, the sun rises across the river. The metal campfire ring serves as a kind of instrument that allows me to mark the movement of the sun. It rises noticeably further to the south as the summer days go by, so that if I were to notch a mark, it would form a kind of sundial. I was talking about this with Kenji, and we marveled at how we were performing a microcosm of enormous human tributes to the sun, such as the Mayan pyramids of Chitzen Iza and Stonehenge. Between the changes in the arc of the sun and the flow of the water, we have a clock of nature that teaches us valuable lessons. We have to listen for those lessons, with awe.
From all these seasons and opportunities to move into some kind of harmony with the place, I see the parallels with our explorations with Sacred Rok on the philosophical plane, something that I hope to share with you in the coming months. I will not be getting these kids into climbing for a while yet, but I look forward to getting our natural curriculum to them through walk, talk, and time.